danapop

Jeralyn Gerba is often credited with an irrepressible knack for spotting the undiscovered long before it’s on trend. It served her well as a former DailyCandy editor, and now, as co-founder and editorial director of the travel website, FATHOM. I’ve been a fan of the site since its launch July 2011 and Gerba was gracious enough to grant me an interview. Here it is.

danapop (dp): What’s the inspiration behind the site? How does collaboration come to play with what you’re doing at FATHOM?

Jeralyn Gerba (JG): FATHOM is a website for global-minded travelers who tour the world spontaneously and deliberately, who mix business with pleasure, and who seek out the new while appreciating the familiar. We combine inspirational anecdotes (the travel stories you tell at the dinner table) with practical advice (the essentials for making it happen). We know that everybody collects both, and we want to provide a place where people can plan their trip and then come back and tell their story.

dp: Do you have a favorite section? Why?

JG: I love the FATHOM Questionnaires — our version of the Proust questionnaire. It’s such a nice way to get to know a writer or traveler I admire. I also really enjoy editing (and reading) itineraries like Best Day Ever, and A Few Days In, which are great starting points for planning a trip.

dp: What are some of your favorite websites to peruse?

JG: So many websites, so little time. I really enjoy The Rumpus and McSweeney’s for my literary fix. Thank You Ok, Cup of Joe, Pinterest for the pretty pictures. Diners Journal and NY Mag and Slate and DailyBeast and NYT for the local happenings. And a million little blogs for inspiration.

dp: In this economy, do you have any tips for staying on a travel budget (besides not going)?

JG: In exchange for volunteering, many places offer a free place to stay (like this cool ashram in Buenos Aires). If you put in the legwork, you can find five-star vacations at two-star prices. You can always apartment swap, camp, go on a road trip, backpack, or couch surf. You can also explore a little closer to home. It’s amazing how much you can discover when you act like a tourist your town or city or just beyond.

dp: How many countries have you traveled?

JG: About two dozen.

dp: What’s one of your fondest travel memories as a child? Adult?

JG: My family used to go camping in the Catskill Mountains. We’d hike through the woods, swim in freezing streams, make huge bonfires, play games, and catch all sorts of critters. My mom is still the best frog-catcher around.

These days I mostly travel to big cities, which I love, but most of the places I dream about going back to involve some sort of incredibly scenic drive (Pacific Coast Highway) and lots of hikes through nature (Switzerland).

dp: What’s the most memorable upgrade or perk you’ve ever gotten?

JG: Catching a ride in a Bentley to the Vegas airport.

dp: Something you never leave home without?

JG: Pocket-size notebook and several writing utensils.

dp: What the first electronic device you turn on when over 10,000 feet?

JG: I am more than happy to stay unplugged up in the air. I rarely even turn on the in-flight television. I prefer reading, writing, sleeping, snacking, and staring out the window.

dp: Are you able to differentiate work verses pleasure travel? Is there a difference in your line of work?

JG: Rarely. Whenever I travel I am taking notes and looking for a new discovery or story angle. At least it’s fun work.

dp: Where are you headed next?

JG: To London, where my husband is DJing at a great little club called Plastic People. Then to Edinburgh and Berlin — two favorites — to catch up with old friends, and, of course, check out new sites.

dp: Favorite recent purchase while on the road?

JG: A few weeks ago, at an apothecary in Beijing, I found black charcoal Japanese toothpaste and matching all-black Q-Tips. They make for a very severe set-up on my bathroom counter.

dp: Where do you call home?

JG: New York City. And I’m always glad to be back.

While I do like my Atlanta life, I terribly miss living by water. You’d think I lived in Hawaii longer than three years, because that stint and the less than one year in Norfolk, Virginia were the only times I’ve lived near an ocean.

After our Christmas holiday at my mom’s house in Kansas, we headed west to ring in the New Year with my twin sister in California, loaded with sunshine and the Pacific, in all her glory.

While there, I went on a hike called the Skyline to the Sea. It’s a strenuous almost 12-miler that around mile nine gave me the most glorious sight I’ve ever laid eyes on—a break in the mountains, to see the roaring ocean waves lapping up the coast just off Hwy. 1. You hear it first and feel it second, so before you even see her, you know she’s there.

She is powerful and moving and was a very symbolic way to close 2011. I already miss her.

About a year ago I traveled to Krakow, Poland for the wedding one of my best friends. I held off on writing about it on dp in order to give first dibs to other publications. Now, I can finally shout it from the rooftops (err computer) what an amazing city this is.

I’m not certain that had the occasion not been there, I would’ve ever ended up in Eastern Europe before Western. Because, I’m admittedly embarrassed to say, I’ve never been to Europe, and I always thought I’d roam wine country in France or eat my way through Italy long before exploring former Jewish settlements in Poland.

This trip was taken at a pivotal point in my life. My husband had just gotten a job after a nine-month layoff, but we were still very much feeling the financial and emotional effects of that period; my mom was just starting treatment for her second cancer battle with non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma. The timing juxtaposed, a really happy, special time in my friend’s life against some personal gunk that was both sad and hard. In all actuality, this feeling isn’t unlike the duality of Krakow—it’s sleek, cosmopolitan, and hip (supposedly it’s becoming what Prague was for American tourists about 10-15 years ago), against a rich (and tragic) history, renaissance and gothic architecture, and ample grittiness. Here’s my pop on Krakow.

Stay
We rented an apartment for the bulk of our trip. The promised Internet connection didn’t work (which was sort of critical to me and my traveling companions since we were all on deadlines to some degree) so I cannot recommend the company we used in good conscience. I do, however, love the experience of an apartment rental when traveling. Two to check out are airbnb.com and boutique-homes.com, both come recommended, but I haven’t used them myself.

We also stayed at Hotel Stary, which is impressive and gorgeous, and I cannot rave about it enough. Because the wedding reception we attended was held there, I did not fully appreciate it as much as I would have normally—it was a bit raucous of a stay to say the least. I mean, not to throw her under a bus, but my twin sister broke a bed at the Stary. Granted it was a roll-away, but seriously, she broke a bed while holding a plate loaded with wedding pastries that she snuck back to the room, leaving the two us in uncontrollable fits of laughter and my husband wanting to kill us both for being so annoying. All of us were in fine form that night, but back to the hotels.

Another one to consider: the Hotel Copernicus, named after Polish astronomer Nicolas Copernicus. It’s described by every major travel publication worth its salt as quite similar to the Stary (intimate, luxurious, modern touches mixed with historic, rooftop bar with a view, basement level spa). Beautiful to boot and only 29 rooms; it feels incredibly special.

Do
While the Old Town is the best part (like most European cities built around a square) do try to steer off the path a bit and take a wander through Kazimierz, the Jewish quarter. You’ll get a much more somber vibe, but really see the grittiness (and spirit) of Krakow.

The main market in Old Town square, called Rynek Główny, is absolutely a must. You’ll find everything from amber jewelry (Baltic amber is a huge business there) to sheepskin coats, and bartering is perfectly acceptable. The Wawel Castle is interesting to walk through, and I think everyone needs a good castle tour every now and again. Several of the bride and groom’s relatives in town for the wedding toured the Wieliczka Salt Mine mentioned it was worth a visit (located about 8 miles outside of Krakow).

Also, you cannot go wrong with many of the museums in the city. This is confirmed by an excellent NYT’s travel piece touching on the emerging arts scene happening right now in Krakow.

Eat

Krakow isn’t just pierogi, pierogi, pierogi for eats. While you can obviously enjoy the Polish dumpling just about any way imaginable, there’s so much more to taste … like the zapiekanka. This street food gem appears almost like a French bread pizza, but in actuality, it’s an open-faced toasted sandwich loaded with mushrooms and covered in melted cheese.

Several must try spots—Alchemia (one of the oldest bars in the city located in Kazimierz), and Buddha Bar, tucked off the square and situated in an outdoor garden courtyard with good music and fantastic cocktails. Honestly, though, one won’t go wrong just wandering the square and stopping at any restaurant along the way. Menus are generally in English and Polish, so you can get a good idea of what to expect.

While I had zero expectations of Krakow before my trip, I adored every minute. Read more of my Krakow musings on FATHOM.com, in a piece about the Hotel Stary.

Image: Courtesy of handhhome.com

We know travel influences art, architecture and design, but seeing the fall pages of glossies filled with Ikat and Navajo prints makes me realize how much travel influences one’s overall style. Here’s my worldly roundup of most fashionable home accents and wears from around the globe.

Peggy 60s faux fur collar coat, Oasis
Zinke ink-imbued jumper, Anthropologie
Seychelles cleary heels, Anthropologie
Coronation jute wine gags, Wisteria

Gypsy 05 grey silk-dye print Ella flutter mini dress, Bluefly
Deborah Lippmann not-so-typical taupe nail lacquer
Starfish pillow, Maine Cottage
Prada turquoise suede cutout platform sandal, Bluefly

Kimono sleeve shift dress, Oasis
Make Up For Ever rouge artist intense, Sephora
Fringe Asia tray, Bloomingdales
Silver Chinese garden stool, Wisteria

Bernere blanket wrap, Les Nouvelles
Modern, slight curve straight jeans in vintage dark, Levi’s
Coffee table book available in October, Taschen
Leather bag, Esprit

Snakeskin print blazer, Zara
Shoshanna green ikat printed silk strapless dress, Bluefly
Two horn necklace, Forever 21
Torro chair by Adam Birch, Anthropologie

Cross leather leggings by Surface to Air, Les Nouvelles
Camilla floral dress by Roseanna, Les Nouvelles
Maguba clogs
Cucina purifying hand soap, Sur La Table

Last month my husband and I went to the beach for eight days. It seemed so ridiculously luxurious, the two of us escaping for that long with absolutely nothing on the agenda except to arrive back in Atlanta tanned, relaxed, and holding the key to the perfect margarita recipe.

Besides basking for over a week in great conversation (seriously, we might’ve solved the debt crisis—at least in our own household), fabulous food (raw oysters and chocolate croissants, I could eat you every day), long beach walks (stumbling upon Stephen King’s dwelling on Casey Key was a nice surprise, the spooky guy in the Sea Oats scaring the you-know-what-out-of-us … not so much), and catching up on stacks of books and magazines both of us had been meaning to read, we didn’t do a thing. There was one final kicker—neither of us worked!

In the three years I’ve owned danapop, LLC, that’s never happened. Like most folks who run a small company, you answer phone calls at unexpected times and work when it’s required. But, coming home after that holiday from my everyday life, I’m not exaggerating when I say I feel like an entirely new person.

It got me thinking about those pieces of travel you take back with you once you return to your own bed. We all escape ourselves a bit when we leave the confines of our structured life. Allowing the day to be as it is, it’s just not something that can happen with bills to be paid, dinner to be cooked, and weekly conference calls awaiting a dial in.

But it’s beyond just a feeling while you’re there. Most of us have those tokens we take with us when we leave, like we’re trying to savor the trip just a little bit more. When I travel, I buy an ornament from wherever I am that gets mixed on our Christmas tree with the matching (ahem, prettier) decorations. Every year, when I hang the little ribbon around the Rasta man-piece shaped like a wreath with the words “no problem” written on the side, it makes me smile and remember our zero cares in Ocho Rios.

And as one that’s ruled by her belly, those pieces of travel we carry with us for certain can come in the form of a great meal. Some of the best food I eat is when I travel. And that’s where most of my memories about a place are conjured up … a recollection of what happened around a table. Or, not to sound too much like Anthony Bourdain, what happened around something woofed down around 2 a.m. while slurring my speech in another country.

From the best sausage of my life post-Temple bar revelry in Dublin, to a kebab in Krakow that to this day makes me visualize manna falling from the sky (but perhaps that’s just because it was the only thing that could shake my husband’s killer hangover and allowed him to talk for the first time at 5 p.m. that day), to the frozen treat sandwiches in Costa Rica that still have me wondering how the cookie part remained soft—not soggy—when filled with ice cream, to that very specific blend of jerk seasoning no one else on the planet can get as good as what I’ve tasted in Jamaica. Or the traditional German meal eaten in Dusseldorf complete with beer refills that were based on the honor system.

But, sometimes it comes in other forms. My twin sister brought back some of the most gorgeous textiles from her four-month fellowship in China. I still can’t decide if the fabric should be filled as pillows or framed as art. The oversized wooden fork and spoon serving pieces that we use so often from a tiny shop on the way to the cloud forest in Monteverde, Costa Rica. Or the jewelry we bought my mom while in Poland—a lovely amber ring handmade by a Krakow-based designer using the jewel native to the region. I have a Kelly green blouse I get compliments on each time I wear it, and I love telling people I got it in the sweetest boutique in Vancouver. The bangles I wear almost every day are from the French market in New Orleans for $1 per bangle (such a steal!), and I think of that trip when I hear them jangle on my wrist.

I love how much stepping away enriches the life one has at home. Whether it’s in the attitude upon return, or maybe it’s in the pieces collected along the way. It makes me want to carve that space out for exploring just to see what I come back with.

Jim Bailey’s stunning photograph captures a storm cloud over Baxter Springs. See more of his work at jimbaileyphoto.com.

We’re heading to the beach next week to spend the 4th of July holiday in Siesta Key, Florida. And it’s reminding me of where I watched fireworks (in spirit) for several years growing up. While we didn’t take many vacations as a family, we did annually stay in my dad’s hometown of Baxter Springs, Kansas for a pow-wow to celebrate Independence Day with lifelong family friends and tribal leaders. In lieu of bottle rockets, oohs and ahs, there, we were surrounded by drumbeats and feathered regalia in ceremonial dance.

Ottawa Nation pow-wow in Quapaw, Oklahoma

My family has strong ties to that three corners region where Missouri, Oklahoma, and Kansas intersect—my great-grandparents Raymond and Fey, met and married in Baxter Springs. It’s just 13 miles from where my father was born in Joplin, Missouri’s St. John’s Hospital, which was hit by the tornado that devastated the area on May 22.

Movie star Tom Mix visiting Baxter Springs, riding my great-grandfather’s horse, Diamond.

All of this reminds me of how much has changed in my life since the last time I’ve been and how much folks in that part of the country are still sifting through. But, I know energy and ancestry runs deep in the land, so I’m hoping for a little tribal dance, a flutter of hope in their honor.

The 1975 documentary on Grey Gardens and the HBO film in 2009 exploring this property in East Hampton, New York (once owned by mother and daughter, both named Edith Beale) are excellent. If you have a moment, the New York Times photos here are stunning and haunting at the same time, as is the Washington Post piece here. Earlier this year, Atlanta Magazine featured an incredible article on Ossabaw Island, the second largest island off the coast of Georgia in the barrier chain, the Golden Isles, and from the first word on the page about its sole property owner, ninety-eight-year-old Sandy West, it reminded me of Grey Gardens. You can read the full article here about West’s family selling the island to the state in 1978.

The string of land surrounded by water along the Atlantic shoreline is part of the reason I was intrigued to move to Atlanta in the first place. The notion that I, a landlocked girl from Kansas could live within a four to five hour proximity of the ocean is baffling. But, it’s true, and there are a dozen islands off the Southeastern part of the state, several with which you are probably familiar—Jekyll (frequented in the early 1920s by the Carnegie and Pulitzers as a winter retreat from Manhattan), Cumberland (John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette wedding), Tybee (numerous movies shot here), St. Simons (its famed first lighthouse has served as a beacon since 1807) and Sea Island (30th G8 Summit in 2004).

I’ve gotten to about a third of them and they all are special in their own way, but the one I want to visit next for certain is Ossabaw. Back in the 60s, West ran the island as the Ossabaw Island Project, an artists’ residency to rival the prestigious Yaddo in New York. There is something drawing me to want to work and write there, even if just for a week. It’s uninhabited mostly, barring West and those on her estate, and you can only get there by private boat and they’d like it to remain that way, preserved and rustic. My twin sister and I have been chatting for a while now about a joint artists’ residency with her sculpture and my writing to see what we can create, so perhaps this is the spot where we’re supposed to be? I do know there’s something drawing me there and I’m listening to that and hoping the untarnished image in my mind matches what I’ll discover.

In 2003, the July prior to my wedding that October, I visited one of my best friends in her hometown of Dublin, Ireland. Every March, with shamrock overloaded visuals and overindulgent drinking stereotypes it makes me think of that amazing trip, and also of that part of the globe. It really is just a hop, skip, and a jump away from the States. The trek is easier than you think and for us in Atlanta it’s only about an hour longer than flying to San Francisco or Seattle … worth it.

Here are a few of my photos (so old they had to be scanned) from that magical isle, though they don’t do the trip justice. The Dublin photos are pretty gloomy, as they were shot in black and white, and it was pouring mostly. To balance them out, I’ve also included a few of Edinburgh, Scotland since that was the part of the trip with glorious sunny pictures to prove it.

This wasn’t always the case, me involved in a love affair with New York. No, my first few trips were like bad dates that you just keep accepting because you’ve got nothing better to do on a Friday night. Manhattan was overwhelming to me—the noise level, the grittiness and brashness, the crowds, the lights, and the neighborhoods—all of it made me just want to stay home in my stereotypical sweats and watch a Rom-Com while eating takeout. Because of this, I never got to know the real New York until very recently—the one without cab drivers trying to rip off naïve girls from Kansas the second they step off the plane with their sleek black town cars sounding like a good idea in lieu of a grody taxi, one without harsh winters or sweltering summers, and void of tourists that stop to gawk in the middle of heavily trafficked sidewalks like they’ve just hopped off the turnip truck that I couldn’t look past.

I’ve been to New York a fair amount. My first trip, I wrote about here, in Holiday Bound, recounting the first Christmas after my father died. Every other trip after that initial one was for work (since when I worked in television my show was based there), so I made the jaunt often enough. Through it all, I’ve discovered in no other place does where you live exemplify who you are. Atlanta has neighborhoods, but our ‘hoods don’t necessarily define you as a person. In NYC saying you live in Battery Park, Alphabet City, Williamsburg, Hell’s Kitchen, or Morningside Heights says more about you than what line of work you’re in, whom you date, or the shoes you wear.

A tipsy Washington Square Park photo taken from a rapidly moving taxi.

But, this last time I went to NY, something dramatic happened inside of me. I was smitten for the first time with the hustle of the city and all that being in Manhattan means. I’m not going to tell you where to eat or stay while there. There’s just too much ground to cover and many places do that better than I ever could. I will, however, mention two things that are a must:

1. Order room service while staying in a big, fancy hotel.
2. Wander, wander, wander … seriously, get lost!

You can’t go wrong with those two things. There’s something about being in a ridiculously overpriced hotel wearing a bathrobe, eating a grilled cheese with tomato and a pile of fries at midnight, listening to the bustle of the city below all because you can that makes you feel alive. And of course, I wandered. I walked until my riding boot-riddled feet couldn’t take it; then I walked some more. There truly is something magical about the city in December. Shopping, eating, shivering, soaking it up. There’s a laundry list of things I always say I’ll do while I’m there—the NY Public Library (though, I’ve eaten at the Bryant Park Grill just adjacent), MoMA (does shopping at the design store count?), the Hayden Planetarium (can’t make it past Central Park), and countless other things on my list, but never got around to—there’s just too much.

What I did get to was on par with any true New Yorker, I think. I hustled. I worked, took meetings, networked my arse off, and was go-go-go the entire trip. It brings it out of you, even if you’re lazy and leisurely, NY will draw out the drive and you’ll be swept up in it. It begins with the culture there that after work, folks don’t immediately head to their miniscule overpriced shoebox that houses the box springs and flat screen. No, they stay in the mix of the city! They meet for drinks, then dinner, then a nightcap, and dress and plan accordingly. In three days I met with a NY Times Magazine writer about a book project I’m working on, worked side-by-side with the lovely photographer on said project, met the entire DailyCandy staff in the flesh in their sweet Soho digs (whom up to this point I’d only know as a login and email addresses) caught up with former editors and TV colleagues, ate amazing food and drank fantastic wine (I have yet to have a bad meal here), reconnected with old friends, and even managed to get in the Christmas spirit (holiday shopping and Rockefeller tree viewing). Pure perfection.

So much so that in the rare downtime I had while there I sent my sister this text:

It’s freezing here, but I am sitting @ a brasserie w a bowl of French onion soup & red wine … on a Wed! I think this might be the best day of my life.

New York City is full of hope and bustle, and in December, well, there’s really nothing quite like it. I left recharged and revived, the perfect remedy for any amount of complacency I’ve had in my own Atlanta as the year came to a close. Perhaps next time, I’ll finally make it to the MoMA; until then, I’ll bask fondly in the city’s torrid details.

Los Angeles–the city of dreams. My twin sister lives in California, so it’s a state I visit often, but most of my stops are further up the coast in San Francisco, Santa Cruz, and Sonoma.

So, when I heard Catherine, the other half of the fantastic AsianCajuns, planned to hit the SoCal spot with her boyfriend Troy, I just had to get her take. Not only do Catherine and her twin sister Lauren (whom you read all about her travels to Scotland here) write the most fashionable blog in Atlanta, they are experienced travelers, and just plain fun.

Here’s Cath’s refreshing postcard … feel free to read this post while wearing sunglasses indoors, that’s so L.A.

This sign on the Santa Monica Fred Segal made me instantly happy. We had just eaten at the Umami Burger located inside and it was one of the best burgers I've ever had.

Meet Sammie the seagull. Troy and I named him as well sipped margaritas on the beach at Paradise Cove-a tourist trap in Malibu.

I fell in love with Ivanhoe Books in Silver Lake. It's an architect, design bookstore/home store and is like walking into a Dwell or Domino editorial.

Apollo Grill in Burbank is the most unassuming eatery in all of L.A., but has the most amazing breakfast burritos.

We spent five days in Santa Monica. The pier reminds me a little bit of the beach towns in England. It's perfect beach town kitschy-ness.

We rode a tandem bike along Santa Monica, Venice and Manhattan Beach and had so much fun we rented the bike again the next day.

Troy and I love a good beer. We stayed at the Farmer's Daughter Hotel for a few days and stocked up at the nearby Bev Mo with some west coast beers.

No trip to L.A. would be complete without an In-N-Out Burger. The burger and fries definitely live up to the hype!

We met up with my cousin for dinner at this amazing ramen place in downtown L.A.

There’s something about a brooding, throaty Scottish accent. It’s absolutely my favorite. And it doesn’t hurt that I’m actually Scottish, at least the Hazels side of me is. According to a really old photo album put together by my late Grandma Mary, the Hazels clan has roots in what was Forfarshire, Scotland, today better known as Angus (which sounds about right what with the stockiness of those Hazels’ genes). Also, is it just me or does Forfarshire sound like a made-up place in Shrek?

I’m not alone in my Scottish penchant–fellow twins and bloggers extraordinaire, Catherine and Lauren (or Cath and Lar) the lovelies behind the über-popular (and just featured on Glamour.com’s Smitten Guide) Asian Cajuns adore the UK isle as well.

Lar was just in Scotland, and next month, you’ll get to read all about Cath’s Los Angeles adventures. So, here’s a twin and Scottish love collaboration in recap form.

I'm absolutely a city girl, but the rugged rural parts of Scotland could totally convince me to forgo the frenzied, smoggy city-life. The air is so clean, and everything has this gorgeous fresh scent. You know those romanticized postcards of rolling green hills, wispy clouds and full rainbows? The real thing puts them to shame.

We started out our trip in the rugged gorgeousness of the Highlands. During August and early September the heather (small purple flowers) bloom and the country is covered in greens and purples. We also (not exaggerating) saw frequent fully arched rainbows as we stepped out for a hike.

After a morning of hiking, we stop by a pub for a pint or a cup of tea and crumbly, buttery shortbread. A cup of tea and a nibble (or gobbling) of shortbread is a perfect antidote to any cloudy or rainy weather you might experience in Scotland. I swear I almost wanted more rain and lower temperatures just to get to wrap my hands around a warm mug of tea.

There are more sheep than people in Scotland. Up in the highlands you will actually feel like it is only you and sheep and maybe a few highland coos (cows). Sheep are rather... sheepish, so I could only get a few snaps of them as they scampered away from my camera.

Not the most attractive name for a delicious dish, but I swear cullen skink is something you should try, especially if you love smoked fish. Cullen is a town in Scotland and "skink" essentially means "shank." So think, shank-of-smoked-fish-soup-from-the-town-of-Cullen. Better? Well, any way you say it, I swear it's divine. We stumbled across a beautiful pub in the heart of the highlands just as a chilly mist was clearing. The minute we walked in, the smell of fresh baked bread and smoked fish had our mouths watering. They served it with a bit of sour cream and scallions on top.

Ptarmingan (prounced "Tar-mi-gan") is just outside of the large-ish town of Pitlochry. We stayed at this beautiful B&B (Ptarmingan House), on our way down from Edinburgh. The rooms were gorgeous, the breakfast fry-up delicious, and place was run by a family of Olympic Curlers. Really. Those curling stones in the photo are not just for show.

Ahhh... Edinburgh. I spent six months living in Edinburgh when I was in college and loved every minute of my stay. The best way to describe it is a small-scale London (obviously, with a Scottish accent). There is a great deal of history and beauty everywhere. It's not as big as it's neighbor to the west (Glasgow), but it's infinitely more charming.

We took a tiny break from our tea drinking one afternoon and stopped in at Chocolate Soup. As the name suggests, they do indeed serve melted chocolate in a bowl. I went for their classic hot chocolate topped with marshmallows and more... chocolate.

Edinburgh shopping is really good. There's the classic British high street shops like Top Shop, H&M, Zara, Monsoon, etc., but really the best shopping is in the Old Town. Heading down to Grass Market I stumbled across an artists' co-op, a graphic design bookstore (swoon!), and this boutique (photographed) called Swish. And don't miss all the great thrifting you can do at the second-hand shops that line Nicolson St. (Oxfam, Cancer Research, etc.).

After a day of sight-seeing and shopping (and eating) in Edinburgh, we headed back to our carriage house in Tranent (just a few miles east of the city). The carriage house we rented is on the grounds of Fa' Side Castle, and we had amazing views of the city from there. On our last evening in Edinburgh the world-famous Edinburgh Festival was coming to a close. We watched a stunning display of fireworks give us a beautiful send-off.

It’s been said that Paris is a city you can discover over and over again. A place to relearn and return to.

It reminds me of that famous Ernest Hemingway quote:

If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.

I dream of Paris’s feast.

Until then, we get a glimpse of its charm through my friend Emily’s eyes. She’s made the return, after going in college some years ago. This time though, while in the midst of some life changes, she and a girlfriend bought the tickets on a whim with the hope that the Parisian art, food, and culture would refresh their perspectives—and so they took the ride.

This week’s travel piece is a postcard from the City of Light.

Écouter!

We arrive to find the view from our hotel in the 5th District foreshadows the old yet chic urban beauty we will see for the next several days.

Breakfast our first day leaves nothing to be desired—why don’t my tomato, ham, and cheese omelets come out like this?

We venture out on foot (miles every day!) to “bump” into this view of Notre Dame across the Seine. My travel companion, who has never visited France, finds any American cynicism about the beauty of Paris (not that she had much) is hard to hold on to.

We run into a neighborhood park. The city is indeed “used”—it is so alive. And we are surrounded by public displays of affection, which add to the romance of the architecture, food, and art to be found there.

Just your typical neighborhood boulangerie—or bread and sandwich shop.

The first day we hit the premier shopping area on the Champs Elysees, if only to window shop after waiting in line to get into the original Louis Vuitton to see $20,000 purses.

Subsequent days we hopped le Metro for easy access to everything we wanted to see. Even the sign for the subway is pretty. Behind is the ferris wheel in the Tuilleries (sculpture gardens behind the Louvre).

The Tuilleries—and an oh-so-convenient view down to the Arc de Triomphe too.

Small children push miniature sailboats around the water in the Tuilleries. I had to be dragged away to go look at some incredible art indoors.

Outside the Louvre—a combination of the famous glass pyramids and the enormous classical building surrounding them, housing more great art than you could see in a week.

And don’t be afraid to dangle your toes in the pools on a hot day. Paris takes the concept of a city being “user-friendly” to another level.

Napoleon’s dining room, at the Louvre. The French know how to entertain.

This lovely statue of Psyche and Amour at the Louvre will make you miss your significant other.

My old boyfriend modeled for this. He was kinda outdoorsy, but away too much to make it work.

Enjoying the sunset outside the Louvre while the locals picnic.

A Van Gogh at the Musee D’Orsay. The colors are so vibrant and visceral in person, I get butterflies.

The Rodin Museum is also full of art that makes you sigh.

Dessert the last night, in Montparnasse. Crème brulée the size of my head. Our brief trip was crammed full of sweet things to feed the soul.

Thanksgiving in Beijing

This week, I check back in with Eric & Beth from El Mundo. Remember, they took a trip around the world that lasted many months and I wrote about several portions of their journey here and here. I was curious how they were acclimating to life back in Atlanta. Recently, we finally had a chance to catch up a bit where we talk Beijing barbecue, compromise, and communication barriers when traveling.

Abel Tasman National Park, New Zealand

dp I’d imagine settling back into normal, everyday, non-traveling life would be quite difficult after such a long time on the road, how was the transition post trip?

Eric The transition was much smoother than expected. Beth and I were extremely fortunate to find jobs within a month or so of being back. This made paying off our small travel debt, quite easy. As far as the non-traveling aspect, that’s the bummer. To go from having everyday like Christmas eve, where only excitement awaits you in the morning; to groundhog’s day, where everyday is pretty much the same, is a harsh reality. Good news … anytime, anywhere, I can always think back and reminisce, and no one can take that away.

Christmas morning

dp How was it traveling through the holidays and being away from family?

Eric Traveling through the holidays was a bit difficult at times because, Beth and I both have strong relationships with our families and the holidays are when we come together. On the flip side, it was great spending a holiday in another country and experiencing it in a different way.

Beth It was quite different experiencing Thanksgiving dinner at a Texas BBQ house in the middle of Beijing and spending Christmas eve and morning lounging by the pool in Bali. The Balinese man dressed as Santa handing out the best chocolates in the world made for a fantastic Christmas morning present. Plus, Eric and I gave each other the greatest gift ever–a four star resort complete with our own bathroom and warm water.

dp Is there anything you wish you packed?

Eric We both wished we had bought and brought a Netbook. We would have saved quite a bit of time and money with our own compact computer. The reward would have exceeded the risk on this item.

Peru

dp Overall, what did your journey teach you about yourself? Each other?

Eric Individually, I learned more about myself than anything else. I could go on for hours about this, but in a nutshell I learned that there is more to life then just flashy cars and fancy clothes. I learned how to function on little money and how to sleep in not so nice places. It seemed like my everyday Atlanta life, with a car, a nice apartment, and great food within arms reach was actually more stressful. Deciding what to wear to work, choosing a place to eat, and figuring out what new gadget I wanted to buy, were all foreign concepts while I was gone. I did not miss that at all. Living as a minimalist was quite blissful.

In regards to the both of us, just thinking about spending six months with someone 24/7 is a bit nerve wracking. We were a little apprehensive about this big journey, but it turned out being ten times easier then we thought. We learned to work as a team

Beth I learned a lot about compromising with Eric. We often shared meals and slept in places that I normally would have turned my nose up at. He taught me a lot about living on barely $20/a day and saving our money. I’ve definitely noticed this influencing my life in Atlanta. I think items through before purchasing them and Eric and I often share meals when we go out.

dp What country or region did you think was the most difficult to travel in and why?

Eric I think that India is probably the most difficult to travel in. We were lucky enough to have had a tour guide for most of our time in India, but without them would be a mess. India, for one, is a tough cookie to swallow. It’s hard to stomach the levels of poverty you are exposed to in certain places. Anytime you ask someone a question, you get a head bobble in return. It’s not a nod, nor a shake … it’s both. Basic communication can be VERY misleading.

Beth Although I agree with Eric on India, I also found China to be very difficult. We constantly found ourselves in situations of the Chinese stealing our money and pointing us in wrong directions. I used the best sign language that I could and the people of Beijing would still look at me and turn away, pretending not to see me. Eric and I got in a bad habit of talking about everyone we passed on the street because no one understood us anyway. We spent lots of time lost with fake money in our pockets.

dp Which place would you like to return to?

Eric We would both like to return to India, and the Philippines. There was a lot that we saw, but much more that we missed due to our tight schedule.

Beth I felt that a lot of our trip was on fast forward. I’d love to re-visit most of Southeast Asia, including Cambodia, Vietnam, and Laos. I would like to surround myself with more of the culture and visit more of the sights that we had to skip over due to our tight schedule. I would agree with Eric as well, India and the Philippines are at the top of my list to revisit. The beauty of the people, country, and culture is something that I would like to experience more of.

Australian Open

dp Would you have changed anything about the experience?

Eric I would have probably been gone longer. We were held to a tight budget on a tight timeline. If we had the option to do it over again, we would probably have taken a year off and posted up somewhere to get some short term work and earn some scratch. We met many travelers that were doing just that. Traveling until they money ran out, working, then starting all over again.

Beth I would have stayed gone longer and given myself more time in some of the larger countries. I regret not seeing more of India and China. They are both so big with so many great things to offer. I feel that my negative perspective of China would have changed if I had visited other cities besides Beijing.

I also would have bought a few more souvenirs. I hated having a heavy pack so I often didn’t buy some great things that I saw.

Thailand

dp Do you have any current trip itineraries in the works?

Eric At this time (cough cough) we do not, however there have been talks about Morroco in the near future.

Beth As of now we just have some short weekend trips to visit friends in the United States planned. Fingers crossed we will either be spending Thanksgiving or Christmas on the road again. Sorry mom and dad.

Courtesy of Sofitel Budapest Chain Bridge

Maybe it’s because I’m reading The Wishing Year by Noelle Oxenhandler in which she writes about the notion of “putting it out there.” Or maybe it’s because, before the age of 11, I’d never lived in one place longer than three years. Perhaps it’s because last month I took over as DailyCandy Atlanta Editor, and while I love it, it’s a stressful position, and when I’m feeling overworked I dream up places I’d like to visit. Whatever it is, I’ve got the travel bug bad.

We’re heading to Krakow in August (Budapest and Prague hopefully will make the cut too) for a dear friend’s wedding. In the beginning stages of planning, I realized it would likely have never been on my list of places to see in my lifetime. I mean, I’m thrilled to go, but don’t know if I would’ve made it to Poland otherwise.

So, where would I like to go? Well, since I’m dreaming, here’s my must-see travel list, and my proactive approach to “putting it out there.”

Courtesy of Lemuria Resort of Praslin

Seychelles
Basically I’ve had a fascination with the Indian Ocean for most of my life. The Maldives and all those itty-bitty specks on a map that don’t have names (and if they do they are called Cockatoo or Christmas Island) and take forever and a day to get to. But, the image of the Seychelles is always my go-to happy place.

Courtesy of Patagonia Camp

Patagonia
This one is more for my man than me. But, I think it’d be the perfect combination for both of us … he could hike to his heart’s content surrounded by untouched nature on the edge of the Earth and I could be surrounded in my third glass of Argentinean malbec.

Courtesy of Hotel Albergo Villa Marta

Italia … anywhere
For our 5-year anniversary we started to plan a trip to Italy. And well our budget got the better of us, so we decided to be responsible adults and forgo the trip. But, I dream of riding bikes along roads in Italy, speaking choppy Italian and gorging myself on cheese, smoked meats, and flatbread (and prosecco).

Courtesy of COMO Shambhala Estate

Bali
Not to sound like I’m totally going through 2 out of 3 on Elizabeth Gilbert’s quest in Eat, Pray, Love … Bali. It had me at an episode of E!’s Wild On I saw back when I was in college, it just seems so far off, spiritual, and yes, Gilbert wrote it—balanced—my idea of perfect.

Courtesy of the Viceroy

Palm Springs, California
I’ve traveled a lot throughout the U.S., and even seen the bulk of California, but I’ve never stopped in Palm Springs. Maybe it’s the pictures of Coachella loaded with skinny starlets all coked out in their cute jumpers, gigantic shades, and fedoras … at any rate, I’ve always wanted to go and always wanted to stay at the iconic Viceroy.

Courtesy of Riad AnaYela

Morocco
Last, but not least, Morocco—specifically Marrakesh. The maze of markets alone would likely cause me panic, but that’s the beauty in travel … getting outside your comfort zone. And every now and then we could all use that push into the scary.

To make traveling a bit easier, the first danapop giveaway from my friends at Malcom Fontier. Comment on where you want to go and why and you could win a free Mojito travel wallet. Their travel wallets are fantastic for organizing all your cards (and money too) plus, it’s flat enough to tuck into a pocket or toss into a purse.

This week’s travel piece is another postcard. It’s from a guest blogger who’s posted on these pages before–Emily Gold from Paper Cake Scissors. Here’s her postcard from Tuscany loaded with winding roads, rolling hills, rich history, and of course plenty of pasta and vino!

Gustare!

Italy was never at the top of my travel wish list until my mom told me that she and my dad were considering a visit over the holidays. The conversation with my husband over whether or not to go was brief, leading to a quick call back to my parents to say YES. I didn’t regret our decision for a minute, especially when, two hours after landing in Rome, we were already exploring the Pantheon. We focused on Tuscany except for one hop across the border into the Umbrian city of Perugia and a brief cruise through Rome during a five-hour layover on the way to Florence. And yes, my parents and husband and I all got along, and we had a very memorable holiday captured in hundreds and hundreds of pictures.

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